A site for real ale lovers (and other drinkers) to share experiences.
Thursday 8 October 2015
With a mid afternoon departure from Heathrow we did not arrive at our hotel, the Ibis Budget
Stuttgart City Nord (Siemensstrasse 28), until the early evening but after a swift wash we soon headed for Feuerbach and our first brewery; a 20 minute walk from the hotel.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
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|
Wichtel |
Stuttgarter Strasse 21 |
70469 |
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Comment |
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Previously an industrial warehouse, this large modern brewpub comes complete with a crane. The brewing equipment is located in the centre of the ground floor and we managed to find (the place was busy) some high seats around the kettle. The food specialty was pizzas and we gave them a go. We all thought they were good (but we were very hungry by then) as were the three beers (served in pitchers) tried. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Wichtel |
Pils |
5.2 |
X |
D |
Excellent starter |
||
|
Wichtel |
Dunkles Pils |
6.4 |
X |
D |
Stronger and sweeter |
||
|
Wichtel |
Dunkles Hefeweizen |
5.2 |
X |
D |
Not cream soda! Very nice |
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Then it was off on the U-Bahn to the old city centre. After a bit of wandering we found the Rathaus and the area we were looking for.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
|||||
|
Deli |
Geissstrasse 7 |
70173 |
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Comment |
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This is a very modern drinking establishment attracting a very modern cliental. The inside was packed but on such a pleasant evening it was no hardship sitting at the pavement tables. Deli is an old town outlet Dinkelacker-Schwaen whose brewery is located in the south of the city and is part of the InBev empire. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Dinkelacker |
Privat |
5.1 |
X |
D |
Unimpressive pils |
||
|
Dinkelacker |
Cluss Kellerpils |
5 |
X |
D |
Naturtrub & much better than the Pils |
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Just across the square was a much more interesting bar.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
|||||
|
Platzhirsch |
Geissstrasse 12 |
70173 |
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Comment |
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The Deer’s Head was a small drinking establishment with a small bar on entry and a larger ‘chill out’ room upstairs. Mark was behind the bar cheerfully serving up the Haake Beck (Bremen) or Lowenbrau (Munich) Export. PV got chatting to Eric, an itinerant American, who was spending a few months (or maybe years) in Stuttgart. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Haake-Beck |
Pils |
4.8 |
X |
D |
Well it’s like Beck’s |
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|
Lowenbrau |
Export |
4.8 |
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|
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The bar closed at midnight and Eric helpfully guided us back to the U-Bahn station (Schloss-platz) giving us the best chance of a U6 back to Feuerbach, all the while commenting we might be too late for the last train. He was correct; we had missed the train by 5 minutes. Fortunately, Eric knew the score, and showed us where to wait nearby at Planie for the night buses. It did mean hanging around until 2.00 am but at least there was a diverting toilet to keep us entertained. True to Eric’s word, just before 2.00 a fleet of buses arrived to take the not unsubstantial crowd back to their homes.
Friday 9 October 2015
After a bit of Fahrkarte-ing about we eventually found the correct combination of trains/trams and we arrived at the festival site at Cannstatter Wasen around midday. The site was massive and, this early, virtually empty. Few of the rides at the large funfair were operating and all the large beer tents empty. This was a late afternoon/evening event but as the beer tents for the evening were fully booked we had had to settle for the afternoon session.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
|||||
|
Schwaben Welt |
Cannstatter Volksfest |
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Comment |
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The central area of the enormous tent contained the stage and was open to the top whist the sides had a mezzanine floor where the expensive seating could be found. The place was virtually empty with what little life crowded around the stage and the Oompah Band in the center. We thought we had found our allocated seating on the margins underneath the mezzanine but fortunately were shepherded to our correct table near the center to join four Dutch catholic card players from Eindhoven. Friso, Hein, Pim and Luuk had also had to purchase the minimum tickets required – 10, so their experience was costing them €100 each. Not that they seemed worried, they were only here to get drunk and pick up women and had also booked an evening session in another tent. After much work PV was eventually awarded a medal for excellence. It took the two English girls they meet about 10 minutes to get the same award. The ticket included 50 litres of beer and 10 half chickens which we split between the 9 of us. Given the tent was only a quarter full for the afternoon session the atmosphere improved as the drinking progressed and everyone was up on the benches singing along by 5.00 pm when the session ended and we were asked to leave to make way for the evening revelers. |
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Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Schwaben Brau |
Volksfestbier |
5.5 |
X |
D |
Sound Marzen Oktoberfest beer |
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On leaving, the festival grounds were now buzzing – the crowds had arrived and the funfair was in full swing. PV, FN, MG and KOC fancied a go on the rollercoaster and in doing so lost contact with the other five. The ride turned out to be very tame so they had a go on the large rotor near the entrance. That one wasn’t tame. PV then went for a piss and lost contact with the other riders (who apparently visited a couple of other tents and managed to get served with beer). Mobile telephonic communication with ROC enabled PV to meet up with the others at the Hauptbahnhof but as none of them fancied the evenings planned itinerary PV set of alone on the U14 for Erwin-Schoettle-Platz.
After walking up and down Boblinger Strasse a number of times he eventually found the Stuttgarter Hofbrau brewery. Unfortunately there was no brewery tap and the locals just pointed out a nearby supermarket as a source of the beer.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
|||||
|
Fiaker |
Boblinger Strasse |
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Comment |
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Dying for a pee wandered into this local bar for local people. There was no draft Stuttgarter available so settled for a bottle. This bar is not recommended for its ambiance but it was a welcome release none the less. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Stuttgarter Hofbrau |
Pilsner |
4.9 |
X |
B |
Unrecorded |
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Continuing his exploration of Boblinger Strasse PV headed back towards the center.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
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Brauereigaststatte Dinkelacker |
Tublinger Strasse 46 |
70178 |
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Comment |
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As much as the previous bar was down-market, this brewery tap was extremely smart; all light pine and polished chrome. Dinkelacker-Schwarben merged in 1996 (with all brewing now at the Dinkelacker site) and was taken over by InBev in 2004. Although there were some Dinkelacker branded beers available PV felt it was time for some black. |
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Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Schwarben Brau |
Schwarze |
4.9 |
X |
B |
Very good black beer |
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The bar staff were very efficient (friendly would be too strong a word) and readily provided directions to the next brewery – straight down Tublinger Strasse, over the duel-carriageway and the brewpub is at the junction of Marienstrasse with Sophein Strasse. What no one mentioned was that it was located at the first floor, above a row of shops in a modern concrete block – the small entrance door was rather difficult for PV to locate as it was in Sophein-Strasse rather than Marienstrasse.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
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Sophie’s Brauhaus |
Marienstrasse 28 |
70178 |
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Comment |
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This was a nice bar – low lighting, no music and comfortable seats. The copper was towards the rear of the bar and the beer dispensed direct from the 2,000 litre conditioning tanks. The seasonal beer was particularly welcome change of style. Very helpful staff. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Sophie’s |
Hausbrau (Helles) |
5 |
X |
D |
Easy drinking |
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|
Sophie’s |
Schwarzbier |
5.1 |
X |
D |
Very nice black |
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|
Sophie’s |
Hefeweissbier |
5.1 |
X |
D |
Not to PV’s taste |
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|
Sophie’s |
Indian Pale Ale |
5.9 |
X |
D |
Lovely English IPA |
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The next brewpub was just down the road and proved to be another first floor establishment.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
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Calwer-Eck-Brau |
Calwer Strasse 31 |
70173 |
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Comment |
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One of the original members of the flourishing Stuttgart micro-brewery scene, the pub was, not unsurprisingly, very busy but PV managed to find a niche by the bar. PV just tried a couple in the hope he might return later in the weekend. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
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|
Calwer-Eck-Brau |
Naturtrubes Pils |
4.9 |
X |
D |
No comments…. |
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|
Calwer-Eck-Brau |
Braumeisterbier |
5.5 |
X |
D |
….could barely write |
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Then it was just a matter of walking to the Hauptbahnhof for the U6 back to Feuerbach.
Saturday 10 October 2015
An early start was required as the train journey into the wilds of the Black Forest involved two changes and took two hours. ROC had previously visited Alpirsbach and was looking forward to re-acquainting himself with the monastery beer brewed there. The Alpirsbacher Klosterbrau was only a short walk from the station and, although you could visit the brewery museum, we just had a quick look around and visited the shop before heading into the tap to see if the beers lived up to ROC’s recommendation.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
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Brauereigasthof Lowen-Post |
Marktplatz 12 |
72275 |
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Comment |
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This very smart guesthouse had housed the original brewery founded in 1885 and now served as the brewery tap. Arriving early for the lunchtime service, there was one large table in the center of the restaurant just made for us. The service was impeccable and the good food was enjoyably washed down with the house beers. |
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Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Alpirsbacher |
Zwickel |
|
X |
D |
Unfiltered but undistinguished |
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Alpirsbacher |
Herbstfestbier |
|
X |
D |
The test to distinguish the herb used |
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Alpirsbacher |
Dunkel |
|
X |
D |
Dark but fortunately not sweet |
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Alpirsbacher |
Weizen Hefe-Hell |
5.2 |
X |
D |
Wheat + Yeast = Hell |
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From Alpirsbach there was only one change at Freudenstadt Hbf to get to Freudenstadt Stadt and some wondered why we did not walk from the main station – until they saw distance between the two stations and the steep hill inbetween. The Google mapping was a bit indistinct but we eventually located the brewery on the far side of the large market square.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
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Turm-Brau Brauhaus am Markt |
Marktplatz 64 |
72250 |
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Comment |
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This was a strange place – outside a modern building with the brewing equipment dominating the two story corner while the bar/restaurant to the rear was single storied and clan in pine, making it seem much older than it is. Mid Saturday afternoon the place was quite busy with diners but we managed to fine a couple of tables. |
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Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Turm-Brau |
Herbst Fest Bier |
5 |
X |
D |
Festival beer with herbs! OK |
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|
Turm-Brau |
Pils |
5 |
X |
D |
Unfiltered and rather good |
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Back on the trains, ROC decided we could make a further stop-over on our way back, after all Boblingen was on the way. With no mapping prepared and JA’s mapping app indicating the Schonbuch brewery tap was located in Calw, some 10 km from the town further beer drinking looked out our reach. But ROC was certain there was a brewery tap in town and his perseverance paid off. We eventually located the new tap opposite the brewery about 1 km from the station!
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
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Brauhaus Boblingen |
Lange Strasse 20 |
71032 |
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Comment |
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The new tap was the size of a warehouse with large glass windows on three sides. Despite its size, the place was packed with diners and there was no place inside for a group our size so we settled outside on the veranda. With PV and ROC seeking relief El Tel ordered; bottled Doppel bock. Despite the strength of the beer, we were getting cold and moved back inside, spreading out over a number of tables whereby we at least had a seat and could order something to eat; no bum on seat = no food. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
I |
Comment |
||
|
Schonbuch |
Doppel Bock |
8.4 |
X |
B |
Rather too hefty for a starter |
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|
Schonbuch |
Ur-Edel |
4.8 |
X |
D |
Refreshing |
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|
Schonbuch |
Naturtrub |
5 |
X |
D |
Unfiltered – reasonable but not great |
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Then it was back to Stuttgart and, for most, off to bed with just the heavyweights staying up for a nightcap.
Sunday 11 October 2017
This day’s destination, Ludwigsburg, is only a few kilometers north of Stuttgart so there was no need for an early start. On arrival some time was spent locating the second brewery of the day before heading into town.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
|||||
|
Brauerei Zum Rossknecht |
Reithausplatz 21 |
71634 |
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Comment |
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This looked like it had been there centuries but it was only founded in 1988. Even so, it was furnished in the style of a Bavarian Gasthaus with long scrubbed pine tables and wooden benches. The gleaming brewing copper was behind glass at the rear of the pub but the conditioning tanks were outside. It was still before 12.00 so we only had a couple of beers and booked for lunch before heading off for some cultural sightseeing – the palace with the pumpkin festival in the grounds, the hunting lodge and the pristine town square. Back in the pub most enjoyed the specialty of the house – burgers! |
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Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Rossknecht |
Urhell |
4.9 |
X |
D |
Naturtrub |
||
|
Rossknecht |
Weizen |
4.9 |
X |
D |
Good example of the style |
||
|
Rossknecht |
Dunkler Hopfenbock |
7.1 |
X |
D |
As expected, this was slightly sweet |
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|
Rossknecht |
Fraulein Cluss IPA |
4.9 |
X |
D |
Very hoppy beer |
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Then it was back to near the station and the town’s other brewery.
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Bar |
Location |
Code |
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|
Brauhaus Ludwigsburg |
Bahnhofstrasse 17 |
71638 |
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Comment |
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The brewery building was modern, insipid and uninspiring and the interior little better. There were few customers mid Sunday afternoon so there was no problem finding a table. The walls were adorned with photos of the famous smoking and a little sport was enjoyed naming them but the most enjoyable game was trying to find the 42 different beer mats with their beery quotes. |
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Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Ludwigsburg |
Hausbrau Naturtrub |
4.7 |
X |
D |
GK IPA standard |
||
|
Ludwigsburg |
Weizen |
5.2 |
X |
D |
OK but not as good as Rossknecht |
||
Back in Stuttgart, ROC wanted to visit the breweries/bars missed on Friday so it was all a bit déjà-vu for PV.
|
Bar |
Location |
Code |
|||||
|
Sophie’s Brauhaus |
Marienstrasse 28 |
70178 |
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|
Comment |
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The pub was much quieter than on PV’s Friday visit but then it was only late afternoon and a Sunday to boot. The same barman was on and remembered PV for some reason but the waiter was different and rather in-different. KO on one of his fag breaks managed to meet a Sophie but failed to entice her to visit. Apparently there was some trouble outside it passed us by. The other Mengo members provided an additional insight to the beers tried Friday. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Sophie’s |
Hausbrau (Helles) |
5 |
X |
D |
Unfiltered and refreshing - all |
||
|
Sophie’s |
Schwarzbier |
5.1 |
X |
D |
A pint of brown & mild – FN |
||
|
Sophie’s |
Hefeweissbier |
5.1 |
X |
D |
Not so bad as some – anonymous |
||
|
Sophie’s |
Indian Pale Ale |
5.9 |
X |
D |
Nice, sharp & hoppy - ROC |
||
Down the road and upstairs, again.
|
Bar |
Location |
Code |
|||||
|
Calwer-Eck-Brau |
Calwer Strasse 31 |
70173 |
|||||
|
Comment |
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|
This time there was room in the house and we settled at a large table near the bar. There was another large party of English in but they were rather more boisterous than Mengo and we didn't mix. At least the visit gave PV had a chance to try the Volksfestbier – however afterwards he wished he hadn’t. FN went for it and tried a Beck’s Pale Ale. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Calwer-Eck-Brau |
Naturtrubes Pils |
4.9 |
X |
D |
Slightly hoppier than Sophie’s |
||
|
Calwer-Eck-Brau |
Volksfestbier |
5.8 |
X |
D |
Excessive caramel |
||
|
Calwer-Eck-Brau |
Schwarzbier |
5 |
X |
D |
PC liked this one |
||
And to finish, our favourite bar from the first night.
|
Bar |
Location |
Code |
|||||
|
Platzhirsch |
Geissstrasse 12 |
70173 |
|||||
|
Comment |
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|
Most really had had enough beer and after one stein went onto schnapps – Mirabellen Wasser (small yellow plum) and Waldhimbeergeist (wild raspberry) for PV while the rest tried the Williams (pear). Nearly finished us all off, but….. |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Lowenbrau |
Export |
4.8 |
X |
D |
You always end up in Munich |
||
A few went for a nightcap at the hotel next to ours – it had a proper bar and was open.
|
Bar |
Location |
Code |
|||||
|
Hotel Europa |
Siemensstrasse 26 |
70469 |
|||||
|
Comment |
|||||||
|
Smart hotel with a smart bar. PV & RN stayed for one then left MG and FN to party on into the night... |
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|
Brewer |
Beer |
% |
T |
|
Comment |
||
|
Dinkelacker |
(Probably) CD Pils |
4.9 |
X |
D |
Ordinary pils but nice enough |
||
Monday 12 October 2015
As usual we arrived early at the airport and had time to ‘enjoy’ the delights of the bar. The Sanwell Hefeweizen was not the best beer tried that weekend but the journey home went smoothly.