Prague and Slany 2017 Beer List

Thursday 5 October 2017

Just for a change we flew from Heathrow on the 07.35 BA flight to Prague. Once there the Airport Express bus took us into the city centre and deposited us outside the main railway station - Hlavni Nadrazi. The walk up Seifertova to our hotel (Eurowings Hotel, Milicova 5, Praha, 130 0) was a reminder that Prague is a very hilly place but we sweated there in the end. There had been a fire in one of our allocated rooms so alternative accommodation for one pair was provided in the adjacent building. PV & ROC accepted the replacement and left for their 5 roomed apartment while the rest headed to their rooms.

After depositing the bags we headed out for a drink. It was not far as a new craft beer bar had opened in a basement room of the apartment block opposite!

Bar

Location

Code

Pivoteka Zirkoff

Milicova 470/6, Praha

130 00

Comment

This small basement bar is the tap for the Collider brewery which had started in 2016. One of the collaborators in the project, Sergie, was behind the bar and instructed us in the art of Czech beer drinking, which was bit much as he is Ukrainian. He particularly recommended the ‘Golden Rocket’, an unfiltered IPA brewed with US hops. There were four beers on draft and a good bottle selection, so we were happy.

It has subsequently all become clear as Collinder is a Ukrainian brewery from Kiev!

The Antos (Slany) and Matuska (Broumy) were at least Czech.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Antos

Antosuv Lezak 11.8º

5.0

X

D

Normal Czech style lager

Collider

De Smedt Asphalt 14º

5.2

D

Belgium IPA

Matuska

Zlata Raketa 17º

7.0

X

D

US style IPA

Collider

Affectionate Krampus 17º

8.1

X

D

Imperial Stout

The evening’s itinerary was in the hands of ROC who had selected a typical Czech bar for our meal, so we headed off downhill towards the Vitkov Park.

Bar

Location

Code

U Slovanske Lipy

Tachovske namesti, 288/6, Praha 3

130 00

Comment

Occupying a corner site this was indeed a very traditional Czech eating house; although reminiscent of Bavarian bars with its half paneled walls and scrubbed tables it was altogether more light and airy. The surly waiters were much the same breed though. However, the beer was good and the food homely and good value.

There are 10 taps offering beers from small regional breweries with one always from the parent company Cernokostelecky Pivovar. Both the Cerna Hora and Vysoky Chulmec are associate breweries of Pivovary Lobkowicz.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Cerna Hora

Sklepni 10º

4.0

X

D

Unfiltered, light lager

Vysoky Chulmec

Vevoda 11º

4.5

X

D

Recommended by barman

Cernokostelecky

Cerna Svine 13º

5.2

X

D

Lovely black lager

After a very relaxing repast we headed back up the hill towards the Vinohrady district passing the Zizkov Television Tower. Light up in blue, the 216 m tower dominates the skyline. It just had to be done; most heading for the highest level and the chill-out zone with its tremendous views over the nighttime city. TM ventured to the first level to have a drink and wait for the rest of us; settling for a gin and tonic when no beer was available.

Bar

Location

Code

Beer Geek

Vinohradska 988/62, Praha

130 00

Comment

This smart beer bar was very popular and there was some difficulty in finding seating but with a few leaving their table we crashed Jimmy and Malena’s (from Malmo) diner date and settled down to sample a few of the 30 keg beers on offer. The problem was the bar had just hosted a tap takeover by Wild Beer from Shepton Mallet and these dominated the selection. As PV pointed out to the barmaid, Mengo had not travelled 500 miles to sample beers from Somerset, but his rant was lost in translation. Still there were a few non British beers to try, so we did. The Sibeeria beers are client brewed for Beer Geek.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Flying Dog

Doggie Style Pale

5.5

X

D

APA from Frederick, Maryland

Malesov

Tmavy Lezak

4.7

D

Dark Lager

Sibeeria

Sweet Baby Jesus

5.0

X

D

Milk Stout

Zichovec

Krahulik 10º

4.1

D

Light lager - for the lightweights

Sibeeria/Freigeist

Got Ricked….

5.1

D

…in Prague. Well you would!

Freigeist/Sibeeria

Russian Liver

8.0

D

Baltic Porter

After a reasonable start to the beer hunt it was time to go back to the hotel and bed.

Friday 6 October 2017

With ROC at the helm it was time for some trains; so it was down to Masarykovo Nadrazi and the smart multiple unit to Kralupy. A change of trains was required here, but with only an old single carriage diesel railcar waiting at the station, we elected to visit the vaste and empty main concourse to check on the next train to Slany. It seems it had just left and with an hour to wait for the next one, we headed into town and found a nice café.

Back at the station and heading to the designated platform we were greeted with an old single carriage diesel railcar! We set off on one of our most unusual train journeys; the train bounced and swayed along the track in a rather an alarming way but everyone on board (apart from us) seemed quite in tune with the motion. They were a happy bunch of travelers, chatting merrily and waving at all the railway workers along the way. The train wound its way through the countryside, stopping at numerous halts along the way, before eventually depositing us at Slany.

The first brewery bar was at the end of the main shopping street, about a 20 minute walk from the station.

Bar

Location

Code

Antosova krcma & pivovarem

Vinarickeho 14/10, Slany

274 01

Comment

In this multi roomed tavern we settled in the bar that housed the brewing equipment. The décor wasn’t smart but the service (from Teraza the barmaid and Klara the waitress) was. Although the beers were nothing special the food was very good and we had an enjoyable lunchtime session.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Antos

Antosuv Lezak 11º

4.7

X

D

The ‘normal’ lager

Antos

Slanska Psenka 11º

5.0

X

D

Wheat beer

Antos

Svatovaclasky 12º

5.1

X

D

Special lager

Antos

Trinactka 13º

5.3

X

D

Red ale – absolute bollocks

Antos

Tlusty Netopyr 17º

7.5

X

D

The ‘Fat Bat’ is a Rye IPA

The taproom of Slany’s other brewery does not open until late afternoon so while walking back towards the station ROC was on the lookout for another bar to kill some time and happened upon a bagel café……………so in we went, as you do.

Bar

Location

Code

Hugo Bagel Cafe

Wilsonova 585, Slany

274 01

Comment

This turned out to be a smart modern little café which not only had quite an extensive menu but also 3 beers from small local breweries. The main body of the café was occupied by smart modern women with their children so we sat in the foyer under the deadwood.

There was no indication on the pump-clip what the Clock beer was so the barmaid helpfully wrote it down. Orlicke Hory translates as Eagle Mountains but no such beer is listed in Rate Beer. But Pivovar Clock is at Potstejn, which is in the Orlicke mountains – she was giving the brewery’s location. The beer was the 12º American Pale Ale.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

I

Comment

Clock

12º American Pale Ale

5.0

X

D

Very refreshing

Peering in the windows, the restaurant Tovarna looked very smart – perhaps a bit too smart for us after an afternoons drinking. However, we did not have to wait long before the adjacent brewery tap opened.

Bar

Location

Code

Tovarna

Wilsonova 689, Slany

274 01

Comment

This may only be the taproom but it was all very new, very modern and very smart; the long open plan kitchen/servery was all polished copper and stainless steel and the walls fashionably bare brick. The seating was around the brewing vessels but the fermenters were behind a glass wall.

The downside of modern came with high tables and chairs; rather difficult to get up to and uncomfortable when arrived. The upside was the beer wasn’t bad. PV suggested to ROC they just shared a Quadruple; you know what the answer was.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Tovarna

Krutak 12º

5.0

D

Unfiltered Pilsener

Tovarna

Salzburg 12º

4.8

X

D

Unfiltered black lager; if you could see

Tovarna

Protektor IPA 15º

6.5

X

D

Less hoppy than expected for an IPA

Tovarna

Quadruple 23º

10.0

X

D

Belgium style dark strong ale

Then it was a matter of retracing our journey back. It might have been the drink but the bouncy railcar seemed less endearing on the way back. But at least it had a toilet!

After such a nice day we were a little surprised to find it pissing down when we arrived in Prague but fortunately it was only a short distance from Masarykovo Nadrazi to the bar.

Bar

Location

Code

Pivovarsky Klub

Krizikova 17, Prague

186 00

Comment

The small ‘beer boutique’ bar is on the street level but there is apparently a rather pricey restaurant in the basement. We did not venture downstairs but stayed in the crowded bar. With no single table free to accommodate our party we split into two groups. Whilst admiring the portrait of some Czech fellow on the wall, KO’s party started chatting to Stephen (German) and Anna (Mancunian); then a man from Dewsbury walked in and PV gave up.

The bar has 6 beers on tap and a huge range of bottled beers which are housed around the walls of the bar. The taps are numbered 1-6 and we started at 1 but dipped out at 6 which was a Strawberry Berliner Weisse. The barman, Peter Passion, displayed the utmost patience in answering all of PV’s questions. Brevnovsky is a Klasterni (monastery) brewery in Prague; Mestansky hails from Havlickuv Brod and Permon from Sokolov. Lobkowicz is a large brewing group and it is difficult to tell where the beers are brewed but this beer was by Vysoky Chlumec. You can guess where the Svijany brewery is!

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Brevnovsky

Zeleny Chmel 12º

5.0

X

D

Seasonal ‘green hop’ beer

Mestansky

Rebel Buric 13º

5.7

X

D

Special lager

Lobkowicz

Premium 12º

5.5

X

D

Very nice (American?) pale ale

Permon

Black IPA 13º

5.7

X

D

Not quite black enough for PV

Brevnovsky

Benedict Svetly Lezak

5.1

X

D

Pilsner

Svijany

Knezna 13º

5.2

X

D

Dark lager like any other brown & mild

Then back up the hill to bed.

Saturday 7 October 2017

PV’s day to take the lead starting with the Metro line C out to the north-east of the city and Prosek; a 20 minute walk through the modern concrete housing estates brought us to our first brewery of the day. We arrived a little before opening time so settled in the beer garden enjoying the sun.

It also gave PV time to find the bus stop needed for the next leg of the journey – it must have been all of 30 metres from the pub!

Bar

Location

Code

Beznoska

Klicovska 805/11, Praha 9 - Prosek

Comment

The micro brewery Beznoska shares the premises of the restaurant and pension Skolicka and going by the old photographs has been greatly enlarged since 2010. Originally just the restaurant building a sizeable pension block has been added – painted blue it certainly stood out! The bar area, where we settled, was by the brewing equipment and the table by the servery provided enough room to accommodate us.

The beers were enjoyable enough and very good value – the ordinary lager costing just 27 Kc as opposed to the 35-45 Kc in the city centre.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Beznoska

Beznoska 12º

4.8

X

D

The ordinary lager – all malt and hops

Beznoska

B-Ejl 15º

5.7

X

D

American Pale Ale – all hops

Beznoska

Citramarrillo 15º

5.8

X

D

As it says in the name

Beznoska

MagBez 13º

5.3

X

D

IPA using Magnum hops

Beznoska

Uzeny Knir 11º

4.8

D

Smoked moustache; ROC, MG & PC

Bus 151 from Klicovska took us Madlina and a short wait for bus 201 to Bulovka – our next brewery was then just across the tram tracks.

Bar

Location

Code

Pivovar u Bulovky (Richter Brewery)

Bulovka 17, Praha 8

Comment

The Bulovky pub is home to the Richter Brewery and was in complete contrast to Beznoska – it was located in a much older part of the city and the pub displayed its age; all brown and cream outside, all wood paneling and scrubbed tables inside. We eat here and might have had some difficulty ordering as they had no menus in English but fortunately our waitress, Jaroslava, had spent 6 years living in the Cotswold’s! The food was very good and reasonably priced, as were the beers. Along with the usual Czech lagers they also have some German style beers in their range – on our visit it was Weiss.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

U Bulovky

Svetly Lezak 12º

5.0

X

D

Aka PuB Premium 12.3º - nice lager

U Bulovky Richter

Holunderbier 11º

4.8

X

D

Pleasant elderflower beer

U Bulovky Richter

Weissbier Hell 13º

5.1

X

D

Does what it says on the clip

Due to road-works the direct tram to our next stop was not running, so it was Tram 10 to the transport hub of Palmovka and a transfer to Tram 14 to Na Balabence and the walk to our third brewery of the day. It was a bit of a trek; quickly leaving the high rise buildings and shops on the main road behind, moving through a residential area and onto the wastelands.

Bar

Location

Code

Pivovar Kolcavka

Nad Kolkavkou 907/8, Praha 9 - Liben

190 00

Comment

The building housing the micro brewery and its tap/restaurant was a little worn out both inside and out but that wasn’t bothering KOC – the brewery was branded KO; he had his own brewery! The place was also busy – mainly because there was a wedding party in the restaurant area, where we also settled. The beer menu listed 10 beers, offering varying styles – Czech, American, Irish and British.

After a few beers we began to feel at home and offered our congratulations to the bride and groom, receiving some of the wedding cake in return.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Kolcavka

Lezacka Svetla 11º

4.5

X

D

Unfiltered light lager

Kolcavka

Extra Horka 12º

5.0

X

D

Extra hops

Kolcavka

Best Bitter 12º

5.0

X

D

Nice hoppy beer – getting better

Kolcavka

Mrtvy Kostelnik 15º

5.5

X

D

Stout – excessive molasses

Kolcavka

Czech IPA 15º

6.0

X

D

True IPA – hoppy but balanced

Then it was the walk back to the tram stop and Palmovka for the final bar on PV’s itinerary.

Bar

Location

Code

Na Palme

Na Zertvach 32, Praha 8 - Liben

190 00

Comment

This small but highly recommended bar is in the basement of a grey apartment block. Fortunately the bar was not busy and there was plenty of room for our party to settle down and set about sampling some of the eight local micro’s beers on tap.

KO discovered the graffiti in the Gents and insisted the rest join him to view it, much to the amusement of the locals, while Anita behind the bar kept us all in check. Someone must have tried the special lemonade produced by a local brewery as they thought it was the best drink; PV thought that accolade should go to the black IPA. Whatever, so far, the bar had the best beer selection of the trip.

Pivovar Uneticky is from Unetice, Falkon from Zatec, Kaspershohorsky from Kasperske Hory and Novej Svet from Cecelice: you know where to put the Clock.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Uneticky

Pivo 12º

4.9

X

D

Good ‘ordinary’ lager

Falkon Prototyp

Old Burton Ale 11º

4.8

X

D

PV did not like this Brown Ale

Clock

Twist 14º Grep

6.2

X

D

American Red IPA…with grapefruit!

Kaspershohorsky

Amalka

4.8

X

D

Amber lager

Novej Svet

Cascadian Dark

8.1

X

D

Lovely Black IPA

PV thought it was all over….but ROC had other ideas and led us back into the city centre and the seedy side of Wenceslas Square for some action; well one of us did get some.

Bar

Location

Code

Illegal Beer Bar

Ve Smeckach 16, Praha 1 – Nove Mesto

186 00

Comment

This small bar is located amongst the sex clubs of Prague’s Red Light district and unsurprisingly the clientele were mostly tourists. What did surprise us was the drinker on the table next to us came from Farnborough. The man behind the bar, Filip, knew his stuff and the beer selection was rather good and included a couple of IPA’s. Falkon do a couple of NEIPA’s and if the version we tried was indeed the 7.4% version (as noted by Filip) then the hops were as shown below. Pivovar Raven is from Pilsen.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Clock

12º American Pale Ale

5.0

X

D

As good as yesterday

Raven

Lemongrass IPA 15º

6.2

X

D

The name gives it away - nice

Falkon

Nu:England IPA

7.4

X

D

Azacca, Mosaic and Citra hop bomb

Sunday 8 October 2017

A rest from drinking to enjoy some of the cultural highlights of Prague……….well after we had visited one more brewery. Particularly as the brewery in question was rather a tourist destination in itself. Trams 9 and 22 took us across the Vltava and up the hill to the Strahovsky klaster.

Bar

Location

Code

Klasterni Pivovar Strahov

Strahovske nadvori 3, Praha 1

186 00

Comment

This brewpub is located in the cellars of the Strahov monastery. The unimposing entrance is in a small tiled hut set in the walls of the monastery but the steps down lead you to a very smart restaurant laid out in many cells of the vaulted cellars. The historic setting was reflected in the price of the beer (70 Kr), even if the quality wasn’t. Just as well it was dark!

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Strahov

Svaty Norbert Svetle 12º

5.0

X

D

Light and refreshing

Strahov

Svaty Norbert IPA 14º

6.3

X

D

Neither light nor refreshing

Strahov

Svaty Norbert Tmave 14º

5.5

X

D

Uninspiring Dunkel

Then the sightseeing; we walked through the Hradcany district past the cathedral and royal palace, then down the hill towards the river. Bladders were under stress but it was difficult to find a bar which wasn’t crowded in this busy tourist area; so we just crossed our legs and headed over the Karluv most to pick up a tram to our next destination. A cock up on the bridge location closest to our destination meant a fair walk along the river but we eventually arrived at the ship.

Bar

Location

Code

Lod’ Pivovar

Dvorakovo nabrezi, Stefanikuv most, Kotviste c.19, Praha 1

186 00

Comment

Yes, this micro brewery and restaurant was on a boat. Previously used for sightseeing trips, the large restaurant deck was nothing but windows and provided a very light and airy setting. The beer prices were reasonable but the food quite expensive: an unfortunate few tried the waiter’s recommendation of wild boar with Carlsberg dumplings (rather like bread pudding) in some sort of gravy – bloody awful. Fortunately the beer was better but nothing special. While we were afloat, it started to rain.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Lod’

10º Legie

4.2

X

D

Light and bitter

Lod’

12º Republika

5.1

X

D

Fuller flavour

Lod’

13º Monarchie

5.5

X

D

Special dark darker

Lod’

11º Rodney

5.0

X

D

Top fermented beer; it’s alright

After a rather poor beer day, it was time for something more serious so we headed for the Prague Beer Museum. Unfortunately, unbeknown to us the bar had moved from Dlouha to nearer the Charles Bridge. ROC was all for seeking it out, but the rest, discouraged by the rain, decided to head back to the bar opposite the hotel and the welcoming arms of Sergie.

Bar

Location

Code

Pivoteka Zirkoff

Milicova 470/6, Praha

130 00

Comment

Sergie was joined by Roman, a friend from the Ukraine. Roman’s two loves were drinking Krampus Imperial Stout and guns a couple of the latter were in the holdall at his feet. Having tried all the draft beers we started hitting the bottle cabinets and suddenly it was late evening and time for some food.

Brewer

Beer

%

T

Comment

Antos

Antosuv Lezak 11.8º

5.0

X

D

Normal Czech style lager

Matuska

Zlata Raketa 17º

7.0

X

D

US style IPA

Antos

Choo Choo

7.8

X

B

Black IPA

Matuska

Raptor IPA

6.3

X

B

Czech IPA

Pardubicky

Porter 1891

8.0

X

B

Baltic Porter

For food we headed up to the eating establishments along Seifertova; PV & FN headed to Pizza Maria for 45cm of takeaway heaven which they consumed in the apartment. While waiting for the pizza, they met the ex Chief Scout of Sicily who was touring the seedier side of Europe trying out the young girls – he particularly liked those from Romania. Total pervert.

And, apart from the minor business of travelling back on Monday, that was it for another year.