2022 Mechelen

Thursday 6 October 2022

Two Monarchs, three Prime Ministers and two and a half years planning and we were eventually off two Mechelen!

Departing Aldershot on the 9.34 we had plenty of time to meet up with JA in The Barrel Vaults at Kings Cross/St Pancras and enjoy some breakfast. At the outside of the Eurostar terminal there was no queue and we were soon through the turnstile and entered….chaos. The place was packed and in took nearly an hour to get through security, border and passport control. The departure time was fast approaching by the time we got through but they did announce the train would be held until all passengers cleared the controls. That’s Brexit for you.

The delay in departure had a knock on effect but we eventually made Mechelen Nekkerspoel and the short walk to our hotel - Holiday Inn Express (Veermarkt 37c). Although nothing fancy, this modern hotel is well situated for the city centre.

After the usual time consuming process of booking in, it was a quick wash and brush up before heading out for our diner date.

Bar		Location					Code
Het Maan Licht		Frederik de Merodestraat 59, Mechelen					B2800
Comment
Although booked for diner elsewhere, we had time to call into this smart, cosy bar just around the corner from the hotel. The clientele were very friendly and knowledgeable about beer and we took the recommendation of the man on the next table for our second beer. Although small, the bar has a good permanent bottled beer list plus a number of changing specials displayed on the board. WeynesHOP is a contract brewer (cuckoo) and the Black IPA was brewed at the Vleesmeester brewery. Neobulles is also a contract brewer with the beer brewed by Brasserie des Legendes.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
WeynesHOP	Vadderik Black IPA		6.5	X	B	Very good example of the type
Neobulles	Biere des Amis		5.8	X	B	Belgian Blonde

After these tasters, it was time to head off to our booking, a 20 minute walk to the west side of town.

Bar		Location					Code
Het Anker		Guido Gezellelaan 49, Mechelen					B2800
Comment
We had intended eating here on our previous visit to Mechelen but had been unable to get a table at this very popular hostelry. No problems this time, ROC had booked. The restaurant acts as the tap for Het Anker, with the substantial brewery located behind. Founded in 1471 it is one of the oldest breweries in Belgium which prides itself for using age old traditional recipes. They use the beer in the food, which everyone enjoyed, PV particularly liking his choice of beef stew. To be honest, the beer was a little disappointing, being rather too sweet for most of our tastes. Still it was a good place to eat and set us up for the rest of the evening.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Het Anker	Gouden Carolus Classic		8.5	X	D	Belgian Strong Dark Ale - sweet
Het Anker	Gouden Carolus Hopsinjoor		8	X	D	Belgian IPA - Golden and sweet

We then headed out past the ring road and the canal into the western suburbs to find Café Tilt (Vrijgeweidestraat 62), a recommended ‘locals’ bar with a good beer list. We were cutting it fine as the café was supposed to close at 10.00 pm but we got there with 10 minutes to spare – only to find the times had been changed and it had closed at 9.30! There was nothing for it but to head back into town

Bar		Location					Code
De Gouden Vis		Nauwstaat 7					B2800
Comment
This basic bars walled garden overlooks the River Dijle at the rear. As it was crowded in the main bar area we ended up in the ‘conservatory’ at the back along with all the smokers. It was a very young crowd and we looked and felt a little out of place. Despite their reputation, it was a rather bland beer choice and PV found it difficult to find anything very interesting and we ended up going to California for the second beer.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
The Musketeers	Dirty Talk		6.5	X	B	Belgian Hazy IPA
Lagunitas	IPA		6.2	X	B	American IPA

Despite the owner, Kevin, assuring us he would be staying open quite late, the Het Maan Licht was closing just as we arrived. So there was nowhere left to go apart from the hotel.

Bar		Location					Code
Holiday Inn Express		Veermarkt 37c, Mechelen					B2800
Comment
Well, the hotel is in Belgium, so it should not have been too much of a surprise that they had a few good beers to try, including some Trappists. So we did.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Westmalle	Trappist Tripel		9.5	X	B	Well why not
Het Anker	Maneblusser		5.8	X	B	Belgian Blonde

Then we followed JA to bed.

Friday 7 October 2022

The cumulative effect of FN locking PV out of the toilet meant we missed the Brussels train from Nekkerspoel by a couple of minutes, so we sat on the platform enjoying the sun and watching the workmen on the adjacent buildings roof. The next train was late so we missed the connection in Brussels by seconds but eventually we arrived in Lot – the stepping off point for our brief tour of the Lambiek beer region.

However, before we enjoyed the delights of Geuze, we headed for an ordinary bar for a taste of some more prosaic beer.

Bar		Location					Code
Café Solsleutel		Dwworpsestraat 4, Lot-Beersel					B1651
Comment
This café, just round the corner from the station, was so nondescript we walk past it before deciding (as it was the only bar in the street) it must be the place. This was a basic locals’ bar and the clientele, Anderlecht supporters to a man, were not a happy bunch having lost to West Ham the previous evening. Still, the enormous barman (there is probably little trouble in this bar when he is serving) was a cheery sole and the drinks list, minimal as it was, did boast three Trappist beers. Goodness, it was good to try Orval again. Perhaps it was because we were drinking his most expensive beers, but he seemed to like us, explaining the little dog which followed him around was inherited from his mother and was probably a little bit gay! Whatever, he gave us all a Jupiler scarf as we left.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Brasserie d’Orval	Orval		6.2	X	B	There is only one Orval

It was then but a short walk to our first blender.

Bar		Location					Code
Brouwerij 3 Fonteinen		Molenstraat 47, Lot-Beersel					B1651
Comment
From the basic to the splendid; this Lambic blender was housed in a modern, purpose built, building with the tap room running along most of the front and the blending barrels in the warehouse behind. Windows in the tap room provide a look into the workings of the Browerij. There was only on beer on draft all the rest being in rather expensive bottles. The Americans, and there were quite a few of them about, were unworried by the cost, and thought all the beer was brilliant. A feeling not shared by Mengo.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
3 Fonteinen	Classical Faro		5	X	D	Young Lambic; not quite paint stripper
3 Fonteinen	Hommage		5.5	X	B	Lambic with cherries & raspberry

It was quite a walk from Lot to Beersel; under the motorway and up the hill, with Mengo becoming quite spread out along the road but fortunately it was nice sunny day and we all made it in the end.

Bar		Location					Code
Oud Beersel		Laarheidestraat 230, Beersel					B1650
Comment
The brewery was founded in 1882 and the buildings reflected this but the tap interior was much more modern. The outside of the Bierhuis was quite striking; painted bright red with chequerboard tile banding in red and white. There was an outside terrace with views over the valley to Lot, but we stayed inside, settling at the large circular table and benches in the middle of the room. The beer menu offered 14 on draught, including an ‘ordinary’ beer, which made JA & TM happy. But after one of the blonde, the others tried some of the weird selection of blended Lambic available. The nice lady serving was preparing food so we had a go of their version of a ploughman’s lunch; local cheese (more like yogurt), Lambic pickle and beer bread. Not particularly nice.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Oud Beersel	Bersalis Kadet		4.5	X	D	Refreshing Belgian Blonde
Oud Beersel	Guacharos		6.8	X	D	Coffee infused Oude Lambiek
Oud Beersel	Pu Erh		6.8	X	D	Tea infused Oude Lambiek

After our little foray into the wonderful world of Lambic, it was time to head back to Mechelen for the festival. We took the cobbled road next to the tap and headed downhill to Beersel station. As our tickets were returns to Lot, there was some discussion whether we needed to purchase tickets from Beersel but as the stop is unmanned we decided to risk it. When checking the tickets, the guard was happy enough so no problem.

It is a fair walk from Mechelen Malines to the hotel and on the way we passed through Grote Markt, the supposed location of the festival – there was no sign of it.

After a quick wash and brush up, we headed out to see if we could locate the festival. In the end we read the flyer again; only Het Anker was hosting the festival on Friday with its offering of specialist bottled beers, the main festival was not until the Saturday! There was nothing else for it – we went back to….

Bar		Location					Code
Het Maan Licht		Frederik de Merodestraat 59, Mechelen					B2800
Comment
The bar was empty when we arrived and Kevin nowhere to be seen. Instead his misses was behind the bar. In the end we drank all the right beers, just not necessarily in the right order. The Herkenrode Vesper is an Abbey beer, first created by Cistercian nuns at the monastery.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Sweynbeer	Smoked Porter		7	X	B	Not overly smoky Baltic Porter
Brixius	Dark Moon		7.5	X	B	Belgian Tripel
Dupont	Monk’s Stout		5.2	X	B	Bit weak after the previous beers
Cornelissen	Herkenrode Vesper		9	X	B	Belgian Tripel
BRAUW	Resist		10.7	X	B	Smoked Imperial Stout

After something to eat at the local fast food outlet, Antalya, and its novel payment machine, a few had a nightcap.

Bar		Location					Code
Holiday Inn Express		Veermarkt 37c, Mechelen					B2800
Comment
PV had a double, FN a triple and TM a blonde.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Westmalle	Dubbel		7	X	B	Trappist (PV)
Westmalle	Tripel		9.5		D	Trappist (FN)
InBev	Stella Artois		5		D	Crappist (TM)

Saturday 8 October 2022

This days’ departure was from Malines but we gave ourselves plenty of time and enjoyed the sunshine waiting for the 10.06 to Buggenhout. From there it was a 10 minute walk to the brewery.

Bar		Location					Code
Bosteels		Kerkstraat 96, Buggenhout					9255
Comment
The brewery was established in 1791 by Jean-Baptist Bosteels and there is still family involved some 7 generations later, although it is now a subsidiary of A-B InBev. The actual brewery was somewhat bigger than PV envisaged from the research he had done. The tour started with an appetiser in the upstairs of the converted coach house to the side of the family’s old country house, which sites incongruously in the middle of the brewery buildings. . It was quite a large tour group, hailing from various European countries. In addition to the largest contingent of Flemish, there were French, Italians and English speakers. Martin led the Flemish speakers while Yves took on the rest, our tour being conducted in English and French. The reason for the shape of the Kwak glass was explained and the coppers impressive, but perhaps the most interesting aspect was the anaerobic digester although the area around this did pong. Yves was an interesting guy, a freelance tour guide, who will happily put together a beer tour of any Belgium city; contact Beardbariian Entertainment. After the tour, it was back to the coach house for our favorite bit – tasters.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Bosteels	DeuS (Brut des Flandres)		11.5	X	B	Biere de Champagne
Bosteels	Pauwel Kwak		8.4	X	B	Belgian Pale Ale (very nice)
Bosteels	Tripel Karmeliet		8	X	D	Keg; slightly less ABV than bottled

On the way back to the station we managed to get some sausage roll type pastry from a local butchers to fortify us until our planned food venue. JA had his own supplies.

The 14.26 from Buggenhout got us to Ghent just after 3 pm and after touring the station forecourt for tickets, the Number 1 took us into the city centre and one of favorite watering holes….

Bar		Location					Code
Het Waterhuis		Groentenmarkt 9, Ghent					9000
Comment
Unchanged from the outside, they seem to have enlarged the café by adding a room from the adjacent building. Apart from that it was its usual busy self. In this lovely sunny day, all the outside seating by the canal was taken, so we headed indoors and found a table in the main bar room. It was good to see the draft beer list was as good as remembered.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Malheur	Malheur 6º		6	X	D	Belgium Blonde
Huyghe	Paranoia		5.6	X	D	Hazy NEIPA

After looking in on the ‘Genever Palace’ to remind oneself of the atmosphere, it was a 30 minute walk to the old warehouses of Dok Noord and the location of our next venue. The warehouses along the canal here had been repurposed into trendy shops and restaurants but we, of course were interested in a new brewery located there.

Bar		Location					Code
Dok Brewing Co		Dok Noord 4B, Ghent					9000
Comment
This micro brewery and tap room is located in an old warehouse which also housed a restaurant and burger bar (Rok/Boef). On entering the large high roofed space, the long tables of the taproom seating came first, then long bar counter and beer taps and the brewing plant at the back. All industrial chic but then who cares, the beer was good and the burgers enjoyable.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Dok Brewing	Waar Is Loca		6.5	X	D	Belgium Pale Ale
Dok Brewing	Ye’East Coast IPA		6.6	X	D	American IPA
Dok Brewing	West Coast IPA		6.6		D	PC & TM
Dok Brewing	Big Rom		10	X	D	Strong Dark Ale; ROC’s treat from PV

Not fancying the walk back into the centre, we took the 4 tram back to the main square, changed to the 1, heading back to the station and the train to Mechelen.

Walking up from Malines we found the Bierfestival Mechelen in full swing. The brewery stands and other stalls were formed in a square with the trestle tables and seating in the centre and altogether the festival took up much of the Grote Markt. Altogether, there were 31 breweries represented.

First up was to get some jetons and, queuing at the token tent it was noticed that at the next door brewery, the 20cl tasters were 2 jetons a piece, so PV went for a starter for 10. At €2 a token and €3 for the glass it looked like it could be an expensive evening. Actually, it turned out that the Sister Brewery was Dutch and was the only one charging €2 a glass; all the Belgium boys were only charging €1!

After getting a first beer, we checked out a suitable place to sit and meet up. However, PV was on a mission; he had been in contact with Kevin at Chapel Brewers (from Kapelle op den Bos) in the hope of securing a visit, but although disappointed on that front, they were at the festival, so he went off to meet them at stand 26. Once there, it seemed easier to work backwards towards the start, so he did not meet up with any Mengo until he run out of tokens and headed back to the hotel.

Most of Mengo were in the lobby when PV got back, but FN was heading off to the festival again having hovered up all the spare tickets from the group. PV decided to join him for a few more tasters and they eventually meet up with ROC. After having had enough the Room 204 boys called in at Antalya and successfully negotiated the payment machine.

The following is PV’s list of beers tried. No idea what anybody else had. Or what order they hit drank them in!

No	Brewery	Beer	ABV	Style	Comment
1	Sisters Brewery	Queen Bee	7.7	American IPA
26	Chapel Brewers	Hoppa Mahony	9.9	Belgium Dark	Green Bullet Hop
26	Chapel Brewers	Hoppa Green	8	Double IPA	Their first beer
23	Nordic Pantry	Claudette	4.5	Belgium Blonde	Restaurants only beer
19	WeynesHOP	Vadderik Black IPA	6.5	Black IPA	Draft version
19	WeynesHOP	Naughty Russian	10	Imperial Stout	Oatmeal
18	Galea Craft	Black Pope	11.5	Imperial Stout	El Palto Coffee (Peru)
16	Lupulus	Hibernatus	9.5	Winter Warmer	Cinnamon
13	Brambass	Prince of Darkness	11	Quadruple	Touch of Oranges
10	De Nachtraaf	Hoppy IPA	7	Belgian IPA
7	Brussels Project	Tough Cookie	7.8	Stout	2022 Version
8	Elcano	Karakterhop	7.5	Saison	Farmhouse Ale

The artisanal Farmhouse Beer finished PV off.

Yes I passed the baton onto Frank who fed and watered him and nearly helped him into his bed as he missed it the first time.

Sunday 9 October

Another day, another train; but at least this time it was from Mechelen Nekkerspoel and so not far to walk from the hotel. Alighting at Antwerpen-Bercham it was a 15 minute walk to Regine Beerplein and the location of our first brewery of the day. The large building at the heart of Regine Beerplein was a former military hospital converted into flats. Our destination was an ancillary building which had been converted into small cafes and restaurants. As we were early for the bars midday opening we joined the families enjoying Sunday coffee in Caffenation.

Bar		Location					Code
Speciale Belge Taproom		Regine Beerplein 1, Antwerp					2000
Comment
Like many an old factory building turned microbrewery, there was a large open space for the taproom with the bar running down on side and the fermenting vessels behind glass at the rear. There was also a mezzanine floor where the toilets were located but the weaker among us used the disabled facilities on the ground floor. Uwe, one of the owners and our barman for today, explained they like to experiment with their beers and label all these as ‘Tourist’ until satisfied with the outcome when the beer is given a name. Good selection of beers which provided a nice start to the day.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Speciale Belge	Hay-Z		6.5	X	D	NEIPA
De Ranke	XX Bitter		6	X	D	Belgian IPA
Gistgeest	Happy Ending		5.5	X	D	Black IPA (Gistgeest = Yeast Ghost)
B. De La Senne	Nomi Hodai		4.5	X	D	Pale Ale (collab with Oxbow Brewing)

A ten minute walk took us to out next brewery.

Bar		Location					Code
De Koninck		Mechelsesteenweg 291, Antwerp					2000
Comment
This large brewery has expanded with new buildings and some old parts of the brewery have been repurposed into a shop and taproom. The taproom was large and sparsely furnished with high tables and chairs. It was uncomfortable and the beer was nothing special. We did not stay long. The nondescript beer tried, APA, is also known as Bolleke De Koninck; which tells you all you need to know.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
De Koninck	APA		5.2	X	D	Nothing special

Our next venue required a tram trip right across Antwerp to the old docks in the north. Asking the barman where we could get some tickets elicited the response not to bother – he had caught the tram home for the past year and never bothered to buy a ticket and had never been challenged. So we risked it and spent the best part of an hour on an enjoyable tram ride through the centre of the city passing by many places familiar from our past visits.

It was an enjoyable walk from the tram stop into the old docks area which provided a view of the spaceship parked on top of the old marine headquarters.

Bar		Location					Code
Antwerpse Brouw Co		Indiestraat 21, Antwerp					2000
Comment
Yet another old dockside warehouse/factory repurposed as a brewery and taproom. This brewery prided itself in producing beers based on the original historic beers of Antwerp, but they tasted overly of vanilla and were not to PV’s taste. However, the food, spare ribs for most, was.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Antwerpse Brouw	Seef Bier		6.5	X	D	Cloudy Antwerp Blonde

It was a 10 minute walk from the docks into a more salubrious area.

Bar		Location					Code
Dr Beer		Adriaan Brouwerstraat 31, Antwerp					2000
Comment
The untidy beer garden at the front belied a chic and comfortable interior. The café/pub also brews on the premises and we tried the Doctor’s Milkshake. This beer was collaboration with the Professor at Leuven University who has produced yeast data bank and subsequently opened his own small brewery. The major taste of the Milkshake was lactose. Not brilliant.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Dr Beer	Milkshake Blonde		6	X	D	Belgian Blonde with fenolic yeast
B. De Dochter an de Koenaar	Belle-Fleur		6	X	B	Belgian IPA

And that was that for the days’ tour. We headed back to the centre by tram and the truly magnificent Central Station. But there was no time to admire the architecture as our train was departing one of the basement tracks in a few minutes. PV & FN took the lift and made it; the rest took the escalators and didn’t. Still they didn’t have long to wait for the next train and we were all soon together again in Mechelen.

One had had enough, another just wanted chips and the others decided to try a local bar.

Bar		Location					Code
Café D’Hanekeef		Keizerstraat 8, Mechelen					2800
Comment
The Rooster is Mechelen’s oldest café dating from 1880 and in its current form from 1950. The building itself was previously chicken-farmers exchange – hence the name and the pictures adorning the walls. The main bar was crowded with locals but the back room empty. All the beers were from De Koninck and PV made the mistake of choosing a beer brewed with wild Brett yeast (think Lambic) and half of it ended down the toilet.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
De Koninck	Wild Jo		5.8	X	B	Brett Beer – bloody awful

Monday 10 October 2022

ROC had taken pity on the travelers and scheduled an easy day for our return. The 10.39 from Nekkerspoel got us to Vilvoorde in half an hour and the 821 bus took us out to Grimbergen. It was but a short walk from the bus stop to the Abbey.

Bar			Location				Code
Fenikshof (Grimbergen Abbey Brewery)			Abdijstraat 20, Grimbergen				1850
Comment
Although the monks originally brewed the beer, this tradition ceased many years ago and the Grimbergen label became a subsidiary of Alken-Maes. However, recently they have brought brewing back to the Abbey site with a brand new micro-brewery located next to the restaurant. This is a bright new building with a drinking area in front of the bar and dining further to the right. There is a small raised area near the bar with more comfortable seating than the high chairs of the bar area so we settled on the stage. Only a few of the beers on offer are brewed at the micro, the rest at the Alken-Maes factory. But the waiters were very nut attentive and the beer interesting enough for a comfortable lunchtime drink.
Brewer	Beer	%		T		Comment
Grimbergen Abbey	Astrum Pale Ale	6		X	D	Slightly Artisanal
Alken-Maes	Grimbergen Blonde	6.7		X	D	Belgian Blonde
Grimbergen Micro	Magnum Opus	8		X	D	Biere de Champagne

And that completed this trips drinking. It was time to wait at the stop, watch the ladder on the roof of the van go through the windscreen of the truck following and catch the bus back to the station. From there it was Brussels Midi, the 17.56 Eurostar to St Pancras, say goodbye to JA and home.

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2022 Mechelen