2023 Bamberg

Thursday 5 October 2023

Now we are no longer part of the Schengen zone, remind us never to travel via Holland again. With a 2.5 hour window between arrival at Schipol and departure to Nuremburg, we should have had plenty of time for a beer but the queue through passport control for the unwashed was horrendous. At the start there were only a few active windows and progress was very slow. So slow, passengers who were approaching their flight times were continuously advanced to the front, which must have been very galling for those just coming to Amsterdam. After queuing for 1.5 hours, we were advanced to the front and eventually cleared passport control. JA had fared better; noticing his difficulty in walking, he had been ushered to the front of the queue! Just to compound the grief, the flight to Nuremberg was delayed. Welcome to Europe.

The rest of the journey, in both the UK and once in Germany went well and. despite the Dutch delaying tactics; we arrived in Bamberg on schedule, just before 8.00 pm.

It was good to be back at the Fassla and after booking in, depositing our bags and freshening up, we joined Graham in the entrance corridor for a few beers.

Bar		Location					Code
Brauerei Fassla		Obere Konigstrasse 19-21, Bamberg					96052
Comment
We were very pleased to see the Fassla hadn’t changed. The corridor drinkers are the serious punters and we fitted in well. The beer was also unchanged with the usual two draft available. Neither is exceptional, but then virtually every beer in Bamberg is better than most. After a couple of liveners it was time to move on.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Fassla	Lagerbier		5.5	X	D	Amber lager and standard
Fassla	Gold-Pils		5.5	X	D	Pilsner and standard

So we crossed the road to…….

Bar		Location					Code
Brauerei Spezial		Obere Konigstrasse 10, Bamberg					96052
Comment
There had been changes! There were new toilets to the right of the entrance corridor, and very nice they are too. The bar/restaurant was however unchanged, although there was no sign of the formidable waitress who controlled us on our previous visits. PV was ahead of the rest and settled at the end of one of the large scrubbed pine table in the main bar. He soon got talking to Alex and Pamela who were visiting from Cologne and more than happy to talk about Kolsch. When the rest of Mengo arrived, they decided not to join PV but headed to the back bar. After A & P left, PV attempted to join the rest but got sidetracked by a group of French Canadians who wanted PV’s opinion on Bamberg beerhouses. He eventually joined the rest just as they were leaving. Oh well.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Spezial	Ungestpundet		4.9	X	D	Unfiltered and lovely
Spezial	Rauchbier Lager		4.9	X	D	Slightly smoked and lovely

After a nightcap back at the Fassla, most decided it was time for bed but ROC and PV thought they needed some more and headed off down Obere Konigstrasse in search of the late night bars. Rumour had it that the bar just over the lights, Strawanza, had a barrel of local beer on the counter at weekends; and they confirmed that was the case but unfortunately did not regard Thursday as part of the weekend. Another time maybe?

They continued down Ubere Konigstrasse hoping for better luck…..

Bar		Location					Code
Catwheezle’s Castle		Steinweg 8, Bamberg					96050
Comment
This late night bar was new to us but had apparently been open for over 10 years. The place was rather higgledy-piggledy with numerous small drinking areas dotted about the establishment but we managed to find a couple of seats at the bar counter. The draft beers were all keg but at least they served Herren Pils. Judith, who had studied at Swansea University was chatty and the barmaid, Coco, very pleasant. Not unsurprisingly the place was busy with the younger generation of drinkers until birthday boy and his more mature crowd arrived (this turned out to be Ulrich the owner). He very generously bought a round of ginger schnapps, so we of course reciprocated. This was enough for even PV & ROC, so we called it a morning and headed back.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Keesmann	Bamberger Herren Pils		4.8	X	D	One of the better pilsners
Klosterbrau	Bamberger Schwarzla		5	X	B	Lovely dark roasted beer

Friday 6 October 2023

PV was running a bit late in the morning and breakfasted alone, completely missing the two tables reserved for the ‘Aspinall’ party and the boiled eggs hidden away in the small wicker basket. But he was in plenty of time to join the rest of the party for the walk across the tracks to the start brewery of the day.

Bar		Location					Code
Hopfengarten		Zollnerstrasse 24, Bamberg					96052
Comment
After passing through the archway in a row of shops you find yourself in what was a market garden with all the buildings and glasshouses now repurposed for the brewing equipment, bars and seating areas. The seating in the beer garden are shaded by the hop vines. This early on a Saturday morning, Mengo were the only customers but the staff found time enough amid their other tasks to serve us with a few beers. To be honest, the beers were not particularly good, but never mind it was a pleasant start to the day, sitting in the sunny greenhouse having sup.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Hopfengarten	Hopperla		4.9	X	D	Green hopped but lacking taste
Hopfengarten	New Bamberg IPA		5.4	X	D	Punchier
Hopfengarten	Schwarzbier		5.2	X	D	Lacked body

It was then just a short walk to our next appointment. Mick D had arranged a tour of….

Bar		Location					Code
Weyermann Malzfabrik		Brennerstasse 17-19, Bamberg					96052
Comment
PV had wanted to visit this Bamberg institution since he first came to Bamberg some 20 years ago and his desire had only increased since finding out they brewed beer as a sideline to malting. Mick D and Dave’s crowd had both enjoyed tours in the intervening years but these had required special access, either through being a brewer or via working for the EU’s agricultural department! Now, as long as you had a party of 8 or more anyone can book a tour. After eventually finding out the meeting place was at the shop/hospitality center, we were greeted by our guide, Olga, who gave a short introductory talk on the origins of the malsters before taking us around the factory. Since Johann Weyermann starting roasting malt in a barrel under a tarpaulin in 1879, the business has grown into a very impressive operation. The tour covered all aspects of the operation – receipt if the grain, floor malting, roasting, packaging and distribution – lasting 1.5 hours. Eventually we found ourselves back in hospitality and what we had been patiently waiting for – a couple of beers to try. They were a marked improvement on Hopfengarten.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Weyermann	Schlotfegerla		5.2	X	D	‘Chimney Sweep’ Rauchbier (no 1)
Weyermann	Meet me at the Festzelt		5.8	X	D	Festbier (no 69)

Back to Zollnerstrasse and the 901 bus which, due to roadworks, took the circle route via the hospital at the top of Bruderwald before depositing us at Laurenziplatz and our next brewery visit.

Bar		Location					Code
Brauerei Greifenklau		Laurenziplatz 20, Bamberg
Comment
It was such a nice day we headed out the back to the beer Garten and settled on a table looking over the valley to the castle (Altenburg) on the opposite side. Apparently, ROC and family walked from here to the castle, but it looked well beyond the current groups capabilities, so we stuck to drinking and starting on the weekends pork odyssey (apart from JA that is). It was very nice sitting in the autumn sunshine enjoying some good Bamberg beer.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Greifenklau	Kellerbier		4.8	X	D	Easy drinking Zwickelbier
Greifenklau	Lagerbier		4.8	X	D	Fuller flavoured Helles
Greifenklau	Laurenzi		5.6	X	D	Marzen

The 901 took us to the central bus station, where we caught the 906 out to Bischberg where, so rumour had it, the brewery there was releasing its bock.

Bar		Location					Code
Hausbrauerei Zur Sonne		Regnitzstrasse 2, Bischberg					96120
Comment
We were unfortunate to arrive at the same time as a coach load of punters who had booked to eat. The place was already busy and, with the coach party to also contend with, the Familie Schuhmann did not make us welcome. With no room inside, we were lucky a local gave up his bench table outside so we could at least have a beer. There was no bock on at the Gasthaus, but as luck would have it, ROC managed to catch the brewer as he left, who confirmed the bock was available at the beer garden, and provided directions.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Sonne	Urtyp Hell		4.8	X	D	Rather gassy Helles

We drank up and headed off; JA to the bus stop to go back and rest his knee, the rest to the beer garden.

Bar				Location			Code
Schuhmann Keller (Sonne Blumengarten)				Rothofweg 9, Bischburg			96120
Comment
What do Germans do in the woods? Well they generally build beer gardens and Sonne are no different. The set up was similar to most outside kellers; a couple of permanent huts to serve from, a toilet block, some awnings for rain cover and tables and benches dotted about the site. It was a good sign that the Keller was busy and indeed the bock was flowing. The round cost nearly €50, which seemed rather a lot until the barman informed PV it included the refundable deposit for the krug. Querying the strength we were told the beer was strong but should be no problem for us as we were English! The bock was good and some would probably have had another, but it was getting chilly, so we recovered our deposit and headed for the bus.
Brewer	Beer	%	T			Comment
Sonne	Sonnen Bock 23	6.5	X		D	Very nice, much better than the Helles

It was lucky we didn’t stay for another; when we got to the stop we found out the last bus was due in about 20 minutes! PV should have remembered, the 906 came back via Obere Konigstrasse but he didn’t and we ended back at the ZOB and walking back to the Fassla. ROC had had enough, so only six crossed the road for a nightcap.

Bar		Location					Code
Brauerei Spezial		Obere Konigstrasse 10, Bamberg					96052
Comment
After making good use of the new toilets we settled in the comfortable bar for a lovely unfiltered Helles
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Spezial	Ungestpundet		4.9	X	D	One of the best

For three, that was enough but PV was keen to see if a barrel had appeared on the bar of Strawanza and took PC & GP along to find out. There was no barrel, so the three headed off to find Coco.

Bar		Location					Code
Catwheezle’s Castle		Steinweg 8, Bamberg					96050
Comment
There was no Coco, but Vanessa recognized PV from the previous evening and was a very pleasant replacement barmaid. She had been with Ulrich the previous on his birthday amble and PV & ROC had apparently chatted to her?
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Klosterbrau	Bamberger Schwarzla		5	X	B	As nice as remembered

Saturday 7 October 2023

As some of the Forchheim breweries closed early on Saturdays, we caught the 10.08 S1 out of Bamberg to make sure we had time to cover them and were in the first brew pub of the day before 11.00.

Bar		Location					Code
Brauerei Herbandanz		Sattlertorstrasse 14, Forchheim					91301
Comment
Herbandanz open at 7.30 on Saturday but close at 12.00 so they had to be our first port of call. The pub was unchanged from our last visit. After entering the passageway, the main bar and servery are on the left up a few steps. There were only a few drinkers in and we had plenty of room to spread out around the scrubbed pine tables. There were three beers on tap and we decided on the Festbier. The question was which one; they brew a Festbier for the Annafest held annually in July but also Jubilaums Festbier. However, as the staff speak no English, PV was unable to confirm which one we tried. Whichever it was, it was lovely.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Herbandanz	Festbier		5.3	X	D	Very enjoyable

Then it was just two doors down to our next brewery.

Bar		Location					Code
Brauerei Neder		Sattlertorstrasse 10, Forchheim					91301
Comment
Again, the pub seemed unchanged from our last visit. This time the main bar is gained from the right of the entrance passageway. In contrast to Herbandanz, Neder was busy but we managed to find enough room on a table in the main bar. The lad behind the bar was keen and we soon had samples of the beer from the barrel set up on the bar – the only draft beer available this visit.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Neder	Export		5.2	X	D	Dortmunder style; bit sweet

Although we were comfortable and enjoying the atmosphere of the busy pub, we only stayed for one, as we had to get to our favourite Forchheim brewery before it closed early afternoon.

Then there was the first disappointment of the day. Technically Brauerei Greif was open as scheduled, BUT not as we would have liked. At the ‘end of the summer season’ all the serving staff had buggered off on holiday and the Gasthof was only open for off-sales. Not only that, the man would not let us buy and consume at the outside tables in case others thought the pub were open.

There was nothing for it but to head for the bus stop and the 265 and our trip into the countryside. We were heading for Rittmayer at Hallerndorf so got off at the stop called Hallerndorfer Strasse. Mistake. As we found out from a friendly local we were in Trailsdorf; at the wrong end of Hallerndorfer Strasse and Rittmayer was 2 kilometers away. This was a bit of a bugger but luckily for us there was a Gasthaus just a few metres away. (Note: the stop for Rittmayer is Spakasse).

Bar		Location					Code
Gasthaus Schwarzmann		Hallerndorfer Strasse 13, Trailsdorf					91352
Comment
Given virtually all the inns are built in the vernacular style, it was difficult to gauge how old this Gasthaus was, but the interior seemed modern. There was plenty of room for us at a large table near the bar. Initially we were only going to have a quick beer but in the end the call of the pork won out and we made the sensible decision to eat here. Unfortunately they had run out of the local sausages and it was another schnitzel for most. The beer was from Lowenbrau Buttenheim.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Lowenbrau	Vollbier Hell		5	X	D	Gassy and disappointing

The 265 runs on an hourly service on Saturday afternoons and by the time we had eaten, there was over half an hour before the next bus was due. Luckily it was a bright sunny warm day, so we walked. Niamh and Carlo were waiting for us at our next brewery. They had come up to Forchheim by train and then cycled out to Hallerndorf.

Bar		Location					Code
Brauerei Rittmayer		Trailsdorfer Strasse 4, Hallerndorf					91352
Comment
Whereas there was doubt over the age of the previous inn, there was none with this one; they had been around over 600 years. Not that we got in. The Gasthaus was in winter mode and they were not open for food. Fortunately they were prepared to sell some beer so we at least got a drink.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Rittmayer	Landbier Hell		4.9	X	D	Proper stuff

The mistake at Trailsdorf had set us back on the intended schedule and with Rittmayer in ‘winter mode’ there was some doubt the other planned stops were open. Fortunately Carlo speaks German and phoned Lieberth (Hallerndorf), Roppelt (Stiebarlimbach) and Witzgall (Schlammersdorf) to check opening. The results were not good, the breweries had closed their summer Kellers and moved back to the inns, but only one appeared open. In the end we decided to abandon the planned trip and head back to Forchheim. It only goes to show, the websites might show the pubs are open but you need to factor in the ‘end of summer’ move from Keller to Gasthaus and the owners taking their holidays at this time.

At the stop waiting for the bus back, even the locals were unhappy with the lack of opening; as one commented, two Brauerei Gasthaus in town and you couldn’t get anything to eat! We were lucky enough just to get a beer.

Back in Forchheim, Eichhorn were closed for the afternoon (reopening at 5.00 pm), so that left us with just one to choose from.

Bar		Location					Code
Brauerei Neder		Sattlertorstrasse 10, Forchheim					91301
Comment
We arrived at the change of shift and the replacement barmaid proved just as efficient. Niamh and Carlo joined us for a proper drink and chat this time. So far, the day had proved disappointing to PV and then he tried the Schwarze Anna and the day didn’t seem so bad.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Neder	Export		5.2	X	D	As before
Neder	Schwarze Anna		5.2	X	B	Lovely dark Munich lager

Leaving Niamh and Carlo to finish their beers we headed back to the station and Bamberg.

The group split up at the station with JA heading back to the Fassla to rest his knee. The rest headed off into the evening gloom to find the ‘village’ on the outskirts of Bamberg, where MD had stayed on his previous visit, that had a couple of breweries.

The ‘village’ turned out to be the area around Wunderburg but as he said it does have two breweries opposite each other. Unfortunately, Keesmann (Wunderburg 5) was closed on Saturday evenings but Mahrs was open.

Bar		Location					Code
Mahrs Brau		Wunderburg 10, Bamberg					96050
Comment
The Gasthaus was busy inside and there was no room for a party of our size. But the search revealed the interior seemed unchanged from our previous visits. Fortunately, it was still mild outside so we settled in the garden near the entrance to the pub. There was only one draft available so we settled for that.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Mahrs Brau	aU Ungestpundetes Naturtrub		5.2	X	D	Very nice unfiltered beer

Some had had enough after Mahrs but Graham was keen to try some Bock. So at Marienbrucke we again split up with ROC, RN & MD heading back to the hotel while PV, PC and GP crossed the Donau Kanal and headed for the old town.

Bar		Location					Code
Schlenkerla (‘Heller-Brau’ Trum)		Dominikanerstrasse 6, Bamberg					96049
Comment
There were crowds drinking their beer in the street outside the 14^th Century brewery tavern, which did not bode well for our comfort inside. But how wrong we were; although the rooms either side of the corridor look busy, the bench table in the passage opposite the beer serving hatch was only occupied by a German couple, so there was plenty of room for us three at the other end. Being able to view the serving hatch was useful as we could gauge the length of the queue and choose a suitable time to join. The crowds were larger than normal as Schlenkerla had released their Bock the previous day. It being the beginning of October, they were the first brewery this year to release the winter beer; a lucky coincidence for those who like the smoked specialty of Bamberg. The beer was €4.70 for a ‘small’ measure (but this being Germany, small meant 0.50 litre) plus €2.00 for the hire of the glass. You had to watch the girl at the servery for both the change given and the number of glass tokens received. While we were on our second Bock the couple left us but we were soon joined by four lads. Max, Felix, Dom and Mat were friends who come from various parts of Germany but meet up occasionally for a weekend. They were a chatty lot and we enjoyed their company while luxuriating in the taste of Rauch. Although there was another wooden barrel of Bock waiting on the trolley by the servery, they decided, as it was nearly closing time, not to tap it. So after just three Bocks we had to settle with a Marzen to finish. T’was a shame indeed.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier	Urbock		6.5	X	D	Absolutely gorgeous
Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier	Marzen		5.1	X	D	The weaker sister but still good

The German lads:

Maximilian Stein

Felix Hermann (fxmh@gmx.de)

Dom…… En….?

Matthias Hiergeist

Outside, the four German lads were keen for another beer but GP had had enough, so clutching his phone with the Fassla located on the app, he headed off, while PV and PC followed the Germans around the corner to a late night bar.

Bar		Location					Code
Ahörnla Braugaststatte		Obere Sandstrasse 24					96049
Comment
This was a mistake. The place was crowded and very noisy and before PV and PC’s arrival populated by no one over the age of forty. We managed to find some room on the balcony upstairs, but it was difficult to hear what was being said. So after an indifferent beer we left the lads to it. Although Ahörnla is Bamberg’s youngest brewery, it is located in one of the oldest buildings in the Sand area and has association with brewing going back to the 14^th Century. It is just a shame the new brewery’s wares don’t live up to the tradition. But then, only had one. And it was after some Bock. Perhaps being a bit hard on them.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Ahörnla Brau	Sand Hell		4.8	X	D	Undistinguished pilsner

Despite PV’s best efforts he did not lose PC on the way back to the Fassla and we arrived back as a pair around 1.00 am. And, as it turned out, this was before GP; his initial selection of the Fasslakeller sending him to entirely the wrong place.

Sunday 8 October 2023

Today we were back in the safe hands of ROC who had planned a day out in Nurnberg and Furth. The 10.38 took us to Nurnberg and then onward on the U2 to Nordostbahnhof. A short walk took us to our first Wirthaus (tavern).

Bar		Location					Code
Landbierparadies Nordost		Leipziger Strasse 32, Nurnberg					90491
Comment
Although most of us had been to other taverns in the chain, Nordost was new to most of us. However, as it followed the ‘Wetherspoon’ formula of repurposing buildings into their corporate look you were immediately familiar with the set up; wood paneling and scrubbed pine tables. The servery had the usual one barrel of draft and there was the more expansive bottled beer list. The draft was a perfectly good Landbier and the bottle list enabled us to try a brewery we missed out on the previous day. Penning brewery is located in Pretzfeld.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Penning	Hetzelsdorfer		5	X	D	Not unreasonable Vollbier
Greif	Dunkles Hefeweizen		5.4	X	B	At least it was dark

A combination of the U2 and U1 took us to Maffeiplatz and the walk to our next Wirthaus.

Bar		Location					Code
Landbierparadies Wodanstrasse		Wodanstrasse 15, Nurnberg					90461
Comment
Another new one in the chain for most of us and followed the corporate décor of paneling and scrubbed pine tables. However, this outlet was smaller and with its large windows looking out on the street, felt more like a pub. The draft beer available provided another brewery missed in Forchheim and the bottle beer list a nice dark beer for most, a Rauch for GP and a Pils for RN.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Eichhorn	Frankisch Hell		4.9	X	D	No gas and better than remembered
Schroll Brau	Nankendorfer Landbier		5.2	X	B	Dunkles Vollbier

Despite initially heading in the wrong direction, we soon reoriented ourselves on the U1 to Barenschanze and the walk to our final Nurnberg hostelry.

Bar		Location					Code
Schanzenbrau Schankwirtschaft		Adam-Klein Strasse 27, Nurnberg					90429
Comment
This one room Gasthaus is the outlet for Schanzenbrau, who brew their beers elsewhere in Nurnberg. There is a beer garden out the back but we stayed in the main room and perused the menu; unfortunately despite ROC’s efforts it proved unfathomable but luckily the locals helped us out with the translations. And the food was very good; PV & ROC loved the pork shoulder and crackling they tried while MD’s schnitzel also went down well with PV. Must say the beers were not outstanding but the food and the comfortable atmosphere made up for any lack on the drink front.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Schanzenbrau	Helles		4.9	X	D	Bland
Schanzenbrau	Schwarzbier		4.9	X	D	Not much better

Feed we headed back to the metro and caught the UI to Furth Hauptbahnhof. We had intended to visit the two Furth breweries but had been informed by Niamh and Carlo the town was holding a fair at which the breweries would no doubt be present. It was crowded and noisy in the square but as promised found a local beer tent.

Bar		Location					Code
Gruner		Furth Festival
Comment
The central park/marketplace was taken over by fairground rides and food and drink tents. Wandering around we found a tent for one of the Furth breweries and settled there. The beer was distinctly average and with the crowds and noise it was not very comfortable. So after just one beer we headed back to the station.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Gruner	Vollbier Hell		4.9	X	D	Gassy and average

Back in Bamberg, a few decided they had had enough but the rest headed for a fare well drink.

Bar		Location					Code
Brauerei Spezial		Obere Konigstrasse 10, Bamberg					96052
Comment
Unsurprisingly, as it was Sunday night, Spezial was quiet and after the noise of the fair this was very welcome. After a few drinks in this favourite place, all had had enough and headed back to Fassla and bed.
Brewer	Beer		%	T		Comment
Spezial	Ungestpundet		4.9	X	D	Still one of the best
Spezial	Rauchbier Lager		4.9	X	D	Smoked to finish

Monday 9 October 2023

With a flight at midday, it was quite an early start; however, with a direct flight from Nurnberg to Heathrow we were back home late afternoon after an uneventful journey back. Hooray.

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